Your DRL will look better if you take the time to use a tape measure and pencil to mark off a pair of symmetrical locations (typically beneath and slightly in from the headlights) for the brackets. Government vehicle safety regulations where you live may require that DRLs be a certain height off the ground, a certain distance from the outer edges of the car, and/or at a certain angle vis-a-vis the front headlights. The instructions provided in this article are generally applicable, but most specifically related to one of the most popular DRL kits—the Philips LED Daylight 8 kit. Always follow your specific product’s instructions when installing running lights.
Another option is to skip using the mounting bracket altogether and instead secure the light bar itself directly to the auto body using outdoor-rated, heavy-duty, double-sided tape. This might be an option if you’re putting the lights beneath the overhang of an air intake grille, for instance.
For instance, look for a spot along the perimeter of the engine bay that’s within about 1 ft (30 cm) of the vehicle battery.
In some cases, you may need to remove and then reinstall the vehicle’s front grille in order to get the wires into the engine bay. The grille is usually attached with several screws, but check your owner’s manual for specific guidance.
Refer to your product guide to confirm that you’re making the correct connections.
Disconnecting the negative terminal cable is a safety measure to reduce your risk of getting an unwanted shock.
Some brands may not have the 2-pronged forks at the ends of the wires. Refer to your product guide for specific instructions.
Depending on the make and model of your vehicle and the automotive lighting requirements where you live, your vehicle may have side lights, marker lights, or both sets of lights. These lights illuminate when the engine is on but the headlights are off, and shut off when the headlights are on. The goal here is to connect your running lights to one of these lights so that they also illuminate and turn off at the same time. It may be a requirement where you live for the running lights to turn off when the headlights are on. If it isn’t, and you don’t mind the running lights being on whenever the engine is running, you can skip this entire section.
This is where you will connect the 2 wires with a T-tap connector, which should come with your kit. If not, buy one at an auto supply store.
Follow the specific instructions for your DRL kit or the T-tap you purchased separately when making this connection.
Use zip ties to secure the excess control box wire to the perimeter of the engine compartment, away from any moving parts or heat sources.
If the lights are not working properly, check back over your work according to the product instructions. If you still can’t figure out the problem, take your vehicle to a licensed mechanic for assistance.
