You may also have to remove your floor vents if you have any in the room.

You can install vinyl planks over other types of hard flooring, like existing vinyl, linoleum, or tiles, if it’s completely level and flush. However, you need to remove the existing flooring if you want a fresh start.

The existing plywood for your subfloor may have various dents or wear that will show through your planks when you install them. Make sure the nails or staples you use to secure the luan is flush or lower than the surface of the plywood so they don’t form any bumps.

You can buy leveling compound from your local hardware or home improvement store. You may apply the leveling compound just in the low areas or you can apply it to the entire subfloor to ensure it’s level. Contact professional flooring specialists if you notice large cracks or damage since there may be deeper problems causing them.

Wear safety glasses while working with a sander or grinder so you don’t get any of the dust or debris in your eyes. You can usually buy or rent sanders and grinders from your local hardware store. Contact a few stores ahead of time to see if there are any available that you can use.

Don’t keep any windows open in the room where you’re installing your vinyl since dust and particles could blow in and make the room dirty again.

For example, if the length of your room is 11 feet (3. 4 m) and the width is 13 feet (4. 0 m), then the total area is 143 square feet (13. 3 m2). If you have an oddly shaped room, try breaking it into multiple rectangular shapes. Find the areas of the individual rectangles and add them together to find the total area.

For example, if the length of your plank is 2 1⁄2 feet (0. 76 m) and the width is 1⁄2 foot (0. 15 m), then the total area of each plank is 1 1⁄4 square feet (0. 12 m2). Vinyl planks usually have a width between 6–11 inches (15–28 cm).

For example, if the area of the room is 143 square feet (13. 3 m2) and the area of a plank is 1 1⁄4 square feet (0. 12 m2), then you would need 115 planks total for your floor. With 10% extra, you would need 126 planks.

Starting in the center of your room makes the planks look more even and reduces the chance that you need to cut narrow strips of your planks later on.

You can snap chalk lines or trace around your planks if you want to know exactly where to place them later on, but it’s not required. If your planks have arrows on the back, make sure they all point the same direction when you install them or else the pattern won’t look consistent.

Don’t take the backing paper off of a plank until you’re ready to install it since the adhesive could get covered in dust and not stick as well. If you have trouble peeling the corner of the backing paper, carefully separate the plank and paper with a razor blade or utility knife until you can get a good grip.

You can also start your planks against one of your walls if you want, but you may have to cut your planks into narrow strips later on if they don’t fit and your room won’t look as balanced.

Use the chalk line as a guide to ensure your first row is straight.

Always line up the cut edge of the vinyl plank against your wall since your cut may not perfectly line up with the edges of the other planks. Peel and stick vinyl flooring doesn’t expand so you can place it directly against the wall without leaving a gap.

For example, if your planks are 3 feet (0. 91 m) long, then place the end of the plank in your second row 1–1 1⁄2 feet (0. 30–0. 46 m) from the end of the first plank in your first row.