Choose a tank according to your budget and the space available in your home. Keep in mind that aquarium stands are designed to offer space for storing important features like the pump. All-in-one tanks tend to be a little smaller than ones assembled by hand. If you plan on building your own tank, you have to buy all of the parts and find room for them around the tank.
Aquariums are heavy! Make sure yours is on the ground floor of your home or, at least, a spot that can bear plenty of weight. You can test the aquarium for levelness by placing a carpenter’s level inside of it. Another option is to pour water inside the tank. If the water flows toward one side, prop it up with wood shims.
The sand can be added later, but it will cause the water to turn cloudy. Run the pump and filter until it becomes clear again. Some people use gravel, crushed coral or other substrates to create a base in the tank. You can even grow coral without a base. Living sand looks nice, but it also helps condition the water and feed the coral.
Check the manufacturer’s instructions for the proper amount of salt to use. The average is about 1 tablespoon (13. 8 g) of sea salt per 5 US gal (19 L) of water. You can get sea salt and mixing tools online or at a pet supply store. Try getting a mixing kit so you don’t have to buy it all separately. Note that you can also buy pre-made saltwater, but it gets expensive.
If the specific gravity is low, the water isn’t salty enough. Mix in more salt. If it’s too high, try mixing in more fresh water. You can attempt to pour water into the tank with some small buckets, but it’s a hassle that often gets messy.
Keep the rocks spread out. Don’t stack them, since that will leave fewer spots for the coral. If you’re planning on keeping fish in the aquarium, make sure they have plenty of room to move through the rocks.
Cycling an aquarium this way wakes up bacteria so it can create the ideal conditions for coral to thrive in. It takes a while, but be patient. The result is well worth the wait. Cycling is valuable any time you wish to add new coral or other creatures to the aquarium. Let the aquarium run as normal for 2 weeks before introducing anything new to it.
Take this opportunity to clean out any debris in the tank. You can suck it out with the siphon or gravel vacuum. After the initial 4-week cycle, the water won’t have to be changed quite as often.
Ammonia and nitrate come from things living in the tank, including bacteria, fish, and coral. Too much of it becomes toxic. It could prevent the coral from ever adapting to your tank. To reduce ammonia and nitrate, continue cycling the aquarium’s water. Eventually, you will have removed all of the harmful chemicals.
For example, sprinkle 1 teaspoon (4. 80 g) of baking soda per every 20 US gal (76 L) of water your tank holds. Test the water again afterward. Add about 1 teaspoon (4. 9 mL) of vinegar for every 5 US gal (19 L) of water in the tank.
Transportation is hard on coral, so try not to handle it too much. Pour out the water first, then set it down gently. Keep it submerged. Some types of coral, such as zoanthid coral, emit a very dangerous toxin. It causes symptoms like fever, weakness, and muscle pain, so it can cause a lot of harm. Always wear safety gear when handling coral![12] X Research source
Coral is delicate, so exposing it to the aquarium water helps it survive once it is transferred into the tank. Make sure the water is warm and well-tested, though! If you are unable to drip water into the bin, pour about 1⁄2 cup (120 mL) of it onto the coral every so often. Try doing it every 5 minutes.
Bottles of coral dip usually don’t come with a dropper, so plan on getting one beforehand. You can get a turkey baster online and at most general stores that sell kitchen gear. Coral dip is useful for getting rid of nasty bugs that could be hiding in the coral. You often won’t spot them at first, but watch for them to emerge as you use the turkey baster. Some people also scrub coral with a soft brush, such as a soft-bristled toothbrush.
Coral doesn’t respond well to coral dip, so rinse it off as soon as you’re done using it. If some of the coral dip gets into the tank, it won’t kill the coral. However, avoid reusing any water containing coral dip.
Some types of hard coral can be placed closer together, while soft coral usually doesn’t need to be separated. You can place as much coral in the tank as you can fit, but it’s better to add them gradually while watching the water conditions to ensure the aquarium stays stable. You can also mount coral by using a waterproof epoxy or super glue to stick it to rock or small stands called frag plugs. Some people use monofilament fishing line to tie coral to rocks. Make sure mounted coral doesn’t overshadow anything beneath it. Coral will die out if it doesn’t get enough light.
In general, make sure your light gives off about 6 to 8 watts of light per 1 US gal (3. 8 L) of water in the tank. Deeper tanks require a stronger light source, while shallow tanks don’t need as much light.
Spread the food around the various polyps, or growths, on the coral. Each polyp is technically a separate living thing, and they will all be hungry! Coral gets some food from the algae growing on it, but, if you want it to thrive, feed it coral food as well.
The correct temperature is 73 to 84 °F (23 to 29 °C). Coral will start to fade after being exposed to unsuitable temperatures. [19] X Research source Use fresh tap water purified through a reverse osmosis or deionization filter instead of salt water. The salt gets left behind as the water evaporates, so adding more would make the aquarium too salty. Make maintenance a part of your daily routine so you don’t forget to do it. If you check every day, you can catch and correct problems as they arise. Note the coral and even take pictures of the aquarium on occasion. This will help you spot subtle symptoms, such as the coral beginning to lose its bright coloring.
The ammonia and nitrate levels should stay near zero. If they start to rise, cycle the tank with fresh water. Do the same if the pH balance is off.
You could also cycle smaller amounts of water every 1 to 2 weeks. Regardless of how often you do it, test the water frequently to make sure it’s safe for coral.
The main problems are water quality and lighting. Test the water quality frequently and note if any other pieces of coral are fading. If only one of them is fading, it could be due to inadequate lighting. For example, a high nitrate level often causes coral to fade. You can fix this by cycling the water, using a good filter, and keeping the aquarium clean.
For example, your coral could have black-band disease, identifiable by thin, black ring and discolorations. Another common disease is rapid tissue necrosis (RTN), where coral suddenly turns white. The causes of coral diseases are mostly unknown but may be due to bacteria or invasive pests. Most are usually difficult to overcome, so separating infected coral is the best strategy. RTN can also be caused by poor water conditions. If your coral has pests like red bugs, worms, or nudibranchs, use a turkey baster to scrape off eggs, small pests, and other debris as well.
For example, if you have a mushroom coral, cut horizontally across the stalk, right underneath the cap. You will end up with a pair of coral pieces that will continue to grow! You can chip polyps off of harder coral with a chisel and hammer. Even though this may seem cruel, it’s actually normal. Coral breaks apart and spreads this way in nature.
