Even if you know the gauge or thickness of the obstructing pipe, don’t rely on this for your calculations. Instead, use the tape measure to get the exact measurement, from the wall to the widest outside edge of the obstruction. For instance, your obstruction might be a 2 in (5. 1 cm) gauge PVC pipe which actually has an outside diameter of 2 3⁄8 in (6. 0 cm). [2] X Research source This second number is your actual obstruction height.
For the PVC pipe, you could choose either 2 1⁄2 in (6. 4 cm) or 3 in (7. 6 cm) as your adjusted obstruction height. The latter will leave you with more clearance. [3] X Research source
For instance, there might be 30 in (76 cm) from the coupling to the center point of the PVC pipe obstruction.
1 in (2. 5 cm), the shrink amount is 3⁄16 in (0. 48 cm). 2 in (5. 1 cm), the shrink amount is 3⁄8 in (0. 95 cm). 3 in (7. 6 cm), the shrink amount is 9⁄16 in (1. 4 cm). 4 in (10 cm), the shrink amount is 3⁄4 in (1. 9 cm). 5 in (13 cm), the shrink amount is 15⁄16 in (2. 4 cm). 6 in (15 cm), the shrink amount is 1 1⁄8 in (2. 9 cm).
If your actual distance between the end of the coupling piece and the center of the obstruction is 30 in (76 cm), and you calculated a shrink amount of 9⁄16 in (1. 4 cm), your center line measurement is 30 9⁄16 in (77. 6 cm). While these are the most common angles to use, you can create a center bend of 60 degrees and 2 outer bends at 30 degrees each. This would result in a saddle bend with a deeper angle but a shorter overall footprint. Use the same calculations when making the marks on the conduit.
If your center line measurement is 30 9⁄16 in (77. 6 cm), mark the center line 30 9⁄16 in (77. 6 cm) in from the end.
1 in (2. 5 cm), place each outside line 2 1⁄2 in (6. 4 cm) from the center line. 2 in (5. 1 cm), place each outside line 5 in (13 cm) from the center line. 3 in (7. 6 cm), place each outside line 7 1⁄2 in (19 cm) from the center line. 4 in (10 cm), place each outside line 10 in (25 cm) from the center line. 5 in (13 cm), place each outside line 12 1⁄2 in (32 cm) from the center line. 6 in (15 cm), place each outside line 15 in (38 cm) from the center line.
If you calculated an outside line measurement of 7 1⁄2 in (19 cm), draw the first outside line 7 1⁄2 in (19 cm) to the left of the center line, and the second outside line 7 1⁄2 in (19 cm) to the right of the center line
The shorter side of the conduit should extend from the top and the longer side should point towards the floor. Steady the bottom end of the bender tool against the floor with your foot. For additional sturdiness, slide a bender boot onto the base of the tool and press down on this with your foot. The boot is a seesaw shaped cap for the base of the tool. It helps you angle the tool towards and away from your body for different bends while preventing side-to-side swaying movements. It’s covered with tread to help you steady the tool against the floor with your foot.
When making a 3-point saddle, you should always create the center bend first. Squat into the bend and bend your knees as you push on the conduit. This will help you get a better look at the alignment on the bender head, and will prevent you from straining your neck or back. For a 30-60-30 saddle, push the conduit until it lines up with the 60-degree line on the bender head.
The center bend should be in a “V” shape and the long end of the conduit will be up in the air, parallel to the floor instead of pointing down at it. Don’t pull the conduit out of the tool. You’re not creating any bends at this point; just repositioning the conduit.
You’ll make both outside bends at opposing 22. 5 degrees. For a 30-60-30 saddle, keep bending the conduit until it reaches the 30-degree line on the bender head.
Keep the bent pieces angled towards the floor, with the center bend positioned like a “V. ”
For a 30-60-30 saddle, make this final bend a 30-degree angle. With the 3-point saddle now complete, you’ll be able to secure the conduit in place right over the obstruction.
